A Consumer Reports study earlier this year raised question about what’s really in synthetic braiding hair. Although some people do, it’s still uncommon for Black women to wash their braiding hair—despite the fact that we’re often wearing braids for long stretches of time.
While not everyone thinks they have a negative skin reaction to wearing synthetic braids, itchy, red scalps are still somehow the norm. And, when peppermint oil and head patting just aren’t enough, can washing your braiding hair be the answer?
Read on for the truth about washing your synthetic braiding hair and how to protect your scalp.
Is synthetic braiding hair toxic?
“Carcinogens, heavy metals, and endocrine disruptors are some of the few chemicals that are found on synthetic braiding hair,” lead hair artist at Nioxin Gabby Henderson tells ESSENCE. However, according to Michael Dueñas, celebrity hairstylist and co-founder of AROVE, “it isn’t inherently toxic.”
First, it’s important to know what the word “toxic” actually means. According to Oxford Languages, “toxic” means “poisonous substances” (causing or capable of causing death or illness if taken into the body). While Consumer Reports found lead, acetone, and benzene in some of the most popular synthetic hair brands, Duenãs and other experts claim, unless you’re burning or dipping the hair, the dermal threat isn’t as serious.
“They can off gas irritants when heated or worn against the skin, but the amount is negligible for the wearer,” he says. “Long-term exposure to the flame retardant can cause health concerns, but it is very rare.” Although, Black women with sensitive skin can still have a reaction to the chemicals, resulting in chronically itchy scalps.
Is synthetic hair bad for your scalp?
“Since it is plastic and doesn’t breathe, it can trap dirt, sweat, and bacteria,” Duenãs says, which may be cause for concern. “This causes itchiness, redness, and sometimes dermatitis depending on how dirty and how often it is rinsed.”
If your scalp is already sensitive, synthetic hair can exacerbate your sensitivity. Non-toxic braiding hair brand Rebundle found one in three wearers will experience scalp irritation from plastic synthetic hair, from inflammation and rashes, to bumps and tenderness, and even a more dry, flaky scalp than usual.
Can washing your braiding hair really remove toxins?
While washing braiding hair isn’t as common as simply ripping open a pack and getting to work, it may be worth starting, especially if your scalp is sensitive. “Pre-washing removes a good bit of the chemical residue,” says Henderson. “It can help remove buildup, dirt, and a small amount of chemicals used on the hair,” adds Duenãs. As a result, your scalp will come in contact with less irritants, which can help make wearing braids much more comfortable (and longer-lasting).
How do you wash braiding hair?
Washing your synthetic braiding hair is a similar—and just as important—process to washing a synthetic wig. Although it adds an extra step to your braid install process, it’s an affordable and simple way to give relief to even the most sensitive scalps.
- Secure the hair with a rubber band: Using a hair band prevents the hair from coming loose when washing.
- Fill a bucket with apple cider vinegar and cold water: If you don’t want to use ACV in a bucket, you can also use a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo in your sink, then rinse with cold water. The point is to cleanse the hair thoroughly and gently.
- Dunk the bundle in the solution: Swish the braiding hair around to help remove some irritants, including buildup, dirt, and bacteria. However, it’s important to note, washing the hair will not remove all the chemicals, like flame retardants and color dyes.
- Smooth down the hair shaft as you dunk: Make sure you run your fingers down the shaft as you dunk the bundle to get rid of any tangles or matting during the process.
- Let the hair dry: After you squeeze out the excess water, air drying synthetic hair is the best method to not damage the hair fibers. But, if you’re tight on time, you can blow dry on a cool, low setting to speed up the process.
What should you avoid when washing your braiding hair?
Although washing your braiding hair seems self-explanatory, there’s a few mistakes you should be careful to avoid:
- Do not bunch the hair: “Bunching the hair will cause tangles and you will probably have to dispose of the braiding hair as a result,” warns Henderson.
- Do not use hot water: “It can deform and let the fibers,” Duenãs says.
- Do not use heavy conditioners or oils: If you do, Duenãs says they can weigh down the braids or even cause clumping of the hair.
- Do not use a blow dryer: (Unless it’s cold air).
- Do not use a cleansing shampoo: If you’re using shampoo instead of ACV, Duenãs recommends the AROVE AERIOUS Shampoo and to add a bit of slip to the hair, a conditioner free of artificial silicone.
How should you care for your scalp while wearing braids?
Even if you wash your braiding hair, scalp care while wearing the braids is still necessary. First, you should prep your scalp with a scalp serum like the Nioxin Scalp Recovery Serum or Relief Serum, and after the install, using a serum like the Design Essentials Anti-Itch Serum can give your scalp a boost of support.
“Dab diluted tea tree or peppermint oil on itchy spots,” Duenãs suggests. “Tea tree oil is an antimicrobial, so it can help keep the space under the braids cleaner and peppermint oil will cool and numb itchy spots, but also boost blood flow helping to get healthier roots and hair.”
If you have a massage gun or head massager, “massaging your scalp gently can boost circulation,” he adds. “The healthier your scalp is, the stronger your hair will be with less breakage.” Blow out your hair as thorough as possible directly after washing (it may be worth investing in a professional blowdryer, like the Dyson Supersonic) and, most importantly, find a braider who doesn’t braid too tight.
Contrary to popular belief, braiding tighter (and caking on product) does not mean the braids will last longer. Finding a gentle, yet skilled braider who has respect for your hair and scalp health is crucial. While your braids should look clean and in place, your scalp should never be in pain after your appointment.
“Being extremely tight and too tight for long periods will damage the follicle and cause hair loss,” Duenãs says. “Avoid super tight braids and give your edges a break every few weeks.”